LA ISLA BONITA 

Photography by Denise Blasor

Don't be scared.
This island is full of noises, strange sounds
and sweet melodies that make you feel good
and don't hurt anyone.

William Shakespeare, THE TEMPEST

Leisurely weekends: By the lake, in the mountains, at the country,
in a different city, at the beach. Make that a beach in San Juan, the capital
of la isla bonita of Puerto Rico and the ideal spot for a couple of days in the sun.

Three to 3 1/2 hours of flight time away from most points on the East coast,
Puerto Rico is close enough to the U.S. to feel familiar: English is spoken
widely, if not the primary language, and fast food restaurants abound.
Yet it is every bit a foreign country, with its Spanish language, unique
culture, vibrant sense of identity, and an inviting laid back vibe.


 A weekend at the beach requires only the
essential in terms of luggage: a swimming suit, evening wear, a pair of daytime jeans, a couple of T shirts, plus a good book.  The best beach in San Juan is probably the one in Ocean Park, a  swath of powdery warm sand lined with palms and handsome houses that is a popular hangout for residents and tourists alike. Walk along the  beach and sooner or later you'll hit Osteria del Mar guest house, a perfect stop over for a late afternoon drink once you have soaked up the sun and splashed to your heart's content in the delightful ocean water. But beware:  once you step into the ocean -- its coolness at first a jarring sensation that is quickly superseded by an immense sense of well being-- you will have a hard time coming out of that swirling watery embrace.

With two full days ahead of you, there is no need to hurry in any way or plan things to a T: since the whole objective of the trip is leisure and maximum beach time, you might as well

A colorful alley in old San Juan

take it as easy as it comes. Sleep in late, have a good breakfast, and then head over to the beach,
making sure to slather plenty of sun lotion. A good point to access the beach is the end of Taft Street, off McLeary Street. You can get there from old San Juan either by taxi or or the number 53 bus, a slower option that nevertheless allows for some interesting sightseeing.

For those who like big and splashy hotels, San Juan has many large resort facilities packed with amenities and offering attractive deals, especially during the off season when room occupancy inevitably drops. But if you are looking for charm and intimacy, then small hotels and guest houses are more likely to deliver the romance one tends to associates with the luscious Caribbean. They're also more affordable although rates, overall, tend to be higher during Puerto Rico's peak tourist season running from December to April. Of the many small hostelries that operate in Old San Juan, Da'House is quite popular in recent years thanks to its hip ambiance. The lobby area on the second floor is a large breezy room with a beautiful tiled floor, a white and black Venetian glass chandelier, eye catching art on the walls and elegant furnishings. Unfortunately, some of the hotel's charm has been lost now that the reception desk has been moved to a tacky ground floor space that doubles as a store. Previously, guests accessed the building via a side entrance on a colorful cobblestone alley.

Parque de las Palomas (Pigeon Park)

The most singular hostelry, however, sits high above the old City's North Wall  overlooking the wide Atlantic ocean. Its name is The Gallery Inn and Owner/Artist Jan D'Esopo has transformed it over the years into a stunning personal creation, a warren of romantic rooms spread between six interconnected houses and linked by passageways that criss cross different levels and create the sense of a labyrinth. Everywhere you look, the eye is captivated by delightful details: a music room, intimate nooks, brick patios, wooden beams, tropical plants, fountains. There is even a lofty aerie with breathtaking views of Old San Juan. Staying here is like spending time inside a lovely piece of art.

San Juan Bay

With lodgings and beach taken care of, the only other items on the agenda are food and a bit of local color. If you like art, you might consider leaving the beach early on a Saturday afternoon and heading over to the Museum of Art of Puerto Rico. Art is a good way to learn about a culture and Puerto Rican artists are as imaginative in their work as they are passionate about their politics. But if you'd rather stay outdoors, then consider a leisurely tour on foot of Old San Juan. The old city is only seven blocks long so getting lost is not an issue. A stroll along Paseo de La Princesa is perfect at sunset and on a Sunday morning, you can see forever from the grounds at El Morro, a true wonder. The green esplanade leading to the ancient fort is the best place to take in stunning views of the majestic Atlantic Ocean and the entrance to San Juan bay.

Lunch need not be a big production but, on vacation, dining ought to be the kind of experience that surpasses the humdrum, quotidian mealtimes punctuating most people's hectic lives.  Luckily, two of San Juan's best restaurants are in the old city. Formerly a quaint, informal lunch spot, Verde Mesa is now a quaint, informal dining place serving incredibly tasty food that is presented with such visual panoply that it practically borders on art. Specializing in French cuisine, 311 Trois Cent Onze receives high marks for its impeccable cuisine. Both of these restaurants are expensive but scrumptious and memorable do come at a price. Another excellent if pricey choice is Bistro de Paris, a restaurant in Santurce that serves up tasty French fare amid a splendid environment, an updated version of one of those famous old Parisian café restaurants, like Le Selecte. For informal, less expensive eating options, there's El Hamburger for delicious burgers, La Casita Blanca for tasty, Puerto Rican home cooking, and  Bebos' Café, a lively local-style diner that serves local food and savory roast chicken.

Sun, sea, tropical breezes, tasty food, ambience. The week-end is over, it's time to say goodbye.  So as you take your leave of la Isla Bonita, remember this: you can always come back.

Evening in Paradise
Photography by Victor Manuel Nieves
from his book Puerto Rico 365

                                                           
For more information on Victor Manuel Nieves' book see
Puerto Rico 365 on Facebook
Da'House Hotel, 312 San Francisco St., Old San Juan  787. 977.1180
 (reservations@dahousehotelpr.com)
The Gallery Inn, 204 Norzagaray, Old San Juan

787.722.1808 or toll free at 866.572.2783 (thegalleryinn.com)
Verde Mesa, 107 Tetuán St. corner of San José, Old San Juan, 787.390.4662
311 Trois Cent Onze Fortaleza St., Old San Juan, 787.725.7959
La Casita Blanca, 351 Tapia Street, 787.726.5501
Museum of Art of Puerto Rico,  299 De Diego Avenue

El Hamburger, 402 Muñoz Rivera Ave.  787.721.4269
Bebo's Café, 1600 Loiza St. corner Parque St., 787.268.5087     

Be kind, for everyone you meet is
fighting a hard battle.

Plato

 A SIMPLE TIP: 
Bandannas make great accessories. They can be flung around the neck,
used to decorate a hand bag, serve as an impromptu cuff. They also
make a perfect cover for a small 20-inch TV set as protection from the dust
when not in use.

And then my ears would just open like morning glories.

Eudora Welty

Copyright ©2012 Lorraine Blasor All Rights Reserve☼